Drum & Monkey

The Drum & Monkey has been serving fish and shellfish in Montpellier for decades, which in a town with a fast-moving restaurant scene counts for a lot.

The ground floor is the more informal half — a compact bar where people eat at close quarters. Upstairs is quieter and better suited to a longer dinner.

The cooking is classic rather than fashionable, and the room has the comfortable, slightly clubby feel of a place that knows its regulars. It is a Harrogate fixture, and one of the first names locals give when asked where to eat fish. Booking is sensible, particularly at the weekend.